2,650 Miles, from Mexico to Canada, On Foot.
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Day 62: It Sounded Like Thunder
It sounded like thunder, only it just kept going on and on for a full minute or so, just after we’d made camp for the evening. It took us a few moments to realize what we’d just heard: part of a mountain falling down! The Sierra are full of faces that are just loose scree…
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Day 61: When They Say Small-Town, They Mean It
Independence, California is a very small town. Within one day, we’ve walked the entire length of the town, and, I think, done pretty much everything there is to be done. It has three restaurants: one is open for breakfast and lunch, one is open for dinner (and oh, it’s a weird one), and the other…
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Day 60: Mountain Spectacular
Even if you don’t normally look at the photo gallery I add to the end of every post, take a look at this one. (Hover over one to see a bigger version; click or double-click to go to Flickr, to see the full-size version.) Some days the mountains make you hold back, like yesterday —…
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Day 59: Judgment Calls
Tonight, we’re only eight miles from where we camped last night, unexpectedly — and gladly. While we were planning to go over Forester Pass, the highest point on the PCT, today, and yet tonight it still remains nearly five miles off. Instead we made camp at something like 3:15 PM — incredibly early — and…
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Day 58: The Most Epic of Days
Today, I felt like more of a hiking badass than ever before on this trip, or even in my life. We climbed the tallest mountain in the continental U.S. through snowfields and ice on rocky ledges, hiked for 15 hours straight, and walked 23 miles while ascending and descending over 5,000 feet each. As Bucket…
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Day 57: Anticipation
If there’s one word for what I feel these days, it’s this: anticipation. Anticipation because I know exactly what’s coming next — we’re about to get to Mount Whitney, and, with it, hit the John Muir Trail. Bucket and I hiked all 220 miles of the John Muir Trail in 2012, and so we both…
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Day 56: Up and Down the Sierra (and Up, and Down, and…)
We’re camped above 10,000 feet for the first time on this trip these past two nights. In fact, we’re only 40 feet higher tonight than we were last night. Yet if you think that means we had a flat, easy walk today, well…yeah. No. Now that we’ve made it to the Sierra, the trail just…
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Day 55: I Found It!
Mile 712.76: 36.14393 N, 118.14433 W, 7962′. This is where the High Sierra begin. You come over a pass, make your way through a small pine forest, and then, as you exit the forest, you’re suddenly in a spectacular High Country meadow like only the Sierra have. It goes on for miles and miles, grass…
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Day 54: Kennedy Meadows!
If you’d arrived by car today at the Kennedy Meadows General Store, perhaps the first thing you’d notice on the way in is, well, that there isn’t much to notice. Kennedy Meadows itself is a burgeoning metropolis of two hundred people, stuck on a back road in the southeastern Sierra Nevada. It doesn’t even have…
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Day 53: Please, Please Let Us Go, Desert
These past few days have, unquestionably, been the most miserable hiking of our entire trip. It’s as if the California desert, deciding that it hadn’t been sufficiently desert-like for us so far, decided to pack all the heat it could muster into these last few days before we climb into the mountains. It was in…
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Day 52: Beating the Heat
Ninety-five degrees is not what you want to see on the thermometer when you’re out here, pretty much any time at all. It’s especially not what you want to see when you have to hike, and doubly so if you have to climb. Today was the first day we made a pretty major modification to…
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Day 51: Yeah, It’s Definitely Warmer Out There
Today, we finally managed to escape force ourselves to leave Lake Isabella…not an easy thing to do, given how unbelievably nice it’s been to relax for a few days — but this is actually called “hiking the Pacific Crest Trail”, not “a tour of Southern California hottubs”, after all. So after waking at 5 AM,…
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Day 50: It Feels Like Christmas
Today was our last day of relaxation before we head out for the trail and are off to the High Sierra. Not only was today relaxing, but it felt a little like Christmas: all the stuff we’d ordered two days ago showed up today. Getting new gear on the trail is about a million times…
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Day 49: Pool Party on the PCT
So, on Saturday, while everyone was getting ready for Memorial Day barbecues, I was hiking through crazy heat and sand and intense wind. I’m hoping that this makes it feel slightly more balanced when I tell you that today, when everybody was at work, I was basking in a pool on top of an inflatable…
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Day 48: Avoiding the Winter Wonderland (And an Awesome Care Package!)
We started our PCT hike really, really early this year — April 8 is nearly three weeks before the traditional start date for through-hikers. We could do this because of the snow, or rather the lack thereof: usually, if you start too early, you’ll hit the High Sierra before the snowpack has melted, and find…
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Day 47: It Sucks to Hike In Sand
We woke up early this morning, safely ensconced behind our natural windblock, ready for a long day of hiking. When we got in last night, we eyed the steep, huge mountain directly across from our campground: our maps told us we were basically going to go straight up the damn thing this morning, and we…
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Day 46: After 600 Miles, We Finally Found the Desert
Sometimes I think of my coworkers, perhaps reading my blog on a Monday as they get to work, hearing about how I hung out in the hot tub all day yesterday. But then sometimes I think of my coworkers, perhaps headed out to a Memorial Day party of barbecue and beer, looking outside at beautiful…
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Day 45: On Average, We Were Just Fine
I have never seen such extremes of weather in a single day of hiking. All morning long, it was in the upper 30s (i.e., really cold), so foggy every tree we passed under would drench us with the slightest provocation, and so cloudy that we had no idea where the sun was. This afternoon, we…
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Day 44: When Cold, Grey Days Are Awesome
We’re on the single driest stretch of the entire PCT right now, which means it’s actually wonderful when it’s cold, grey, and foggy all day long — it keeps you from sweating too much, which means you don’t have to carry as much water. We’ve had two nineteen-mile stretches in a row between water sources,…
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Day 43: We Finally Escape the Vortex
We thought we were going to get an early start this morning…but that was before we looked at the bus schedule to take us back to the trail and found the only bus before 9 AM was at 5 AM. (Shockingly, East Kern Regional Transit does not have an incredibly thorough or frequent bus network.)…
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